Monday, July 31, 2006
Sunday, July 30, 2006
Ah me hearties. Some highlights from our fierce travels across the oceans over the last few days - them sees can be tough!
Santorini to Greece saw us harassed by some seedy passengers - they stared continuously with lascivious looks in their (patched) eyes. We think they even snuck some pics of us on their mobile phones. When Kate told the deckhands of the trouble they assured us some new seats down below in the finer seating. Cut to the next scene - there we were, plonked on 2 desk chairs in the middle of a walkway with people starring at us as they passed through. Not quite the protection and upgrade we had desired.
We finally got to the (average) hostel - loved that cold shower in the morning after little sleep. Then it was our intriguing train ride to the port as we have already filled you in on. Our ferry to Bari had a pool on deck, though we did not take advantage for fear of catching something. We ate our own weight in peanuts and other such supermarket snacks that become the staple food group of the traveler. Later in the night we snuck inside to the posh seats and slept on the floor - just as every other pleb with a deck ticket does.
Our arrival in the Italian port of Bari was marred by the fact that the ports don't really want to give you your ferry tickets - and there were no Johnny Depp looking staff to help us out (keeping with our pirates theme and all). People were yelling and pushing to try and get their tickets, in a frantic scramble, as we sat outside and lamented about how much we stank and craved a decent shower...
Finally we got our tickets and tried to entertain ourselves for the day. We truly found the treasure when we begun the mission of getting on the ferry to Dubrovnik. Bless the Italians - minimal staff to check passports, regulate crowds and to let us know where we are going - actually the staff totaled approx 5 people to do this!
Well if we thought we were plebs on the last ferry we were wrong - it had been more like the luxury of the first class Titanic compared to the tiny and basic surrounds we now faced. We were delayed by 2 hours due to brilliant organisation at the port as mentioned, the toilets were beyond vile and we were lumbered with another bossy, yelling European grandmother. This nonna was more painful than when we cut off our legs to give ourselves wooden ones!
We finally docked only to face a barrage of people yelling at us to stay at their houses. We decided on a really nice couple with a lovely place close to everything - so refreshing to be able to cook and have your own CLEAN bathroom.
Dubrovnik is amazing - so beautiful - we are actually writing this from an outdoor internet cafe surrounded by lush gardens. The water is crystal clear and the perfect temperature. The Old Town is fantastic - beautiful old buildings bustling with people and shops. The seafood is also a feature - look out for picture of Katie and her fish as soon as the pics will finally work (they are taking forever).
Wish you were here enjoying it with us...
Friday, July 28, 2006
Due to the extortion internet rates on the islands, we offer a summary to you now - sorry for the delay.
Ios
We were once again blessed with our accomodation - Olga's Pension was fabulous. resort style pool, huge room and great staff. A big thanks to Olga for even washing our clothes for us - bless. We hit the town for a free pubcrawl on the first night. We soon learnt that Ios is certainly a very touristy island with a Gold Coast feel permeating the nightlife! The Red Bull Bar was truly about 4 by 5 metres...cosy indeed. The only way to escape the crowds was to dance on the tables, well that was our excuse. Basically we sunned ourselves silly and a hard day involved visits to the beach AND pool combined. Kate also fell in love - WITH THE GREEK SALAD AT 'APHRODITES'. She demanded a photo too so we will put that up soon.
Santorini
Believe the hype - Santorini is devine and a place everyone must see before they die. The trip up the mountain from the port is quite an interesting one especially if you fancy near-death experiences. The Greeks drive like maniacs, even on cliff tops! We saw the sun set at both Fira and Oia and went to the volcano site and hot springs aka the lukewarm springs. We also went to a black sand beach, where the volcanic sand is exactly that - and HOT! The water was beautiful and the view - huge mountains wrapping round you - is amazing. To paraphrase The Castle - 'Feel the serenity...'.
The friendliness of the Greeks is present on the islands just as the mainland. One waiter invited us into his 'house' aka one of the best hotels in Fira - indoor pool and rooftop jacuzzi offerings. Again, we have picture evidence.
After this grand tour we found ourselves in certainly the most amazing club we have witnessed - TAJ MAHAL. This Turkish and Indian inspired club was a visual feast - open air, decadent furnishings, treasure chests (Kate's personal favourite), shishka pipes to smoke from and belly dancers were just some of the marvels on offer. We have big plans for a Sydney branch...
In summary Greece was fabulous in everyway except for the no flushing of toilet paper, crazy speeding cab drivers who rip you off and yelling grandmothers on public transport! We will miss the food - Kate is searching for a means of receiving Greek salad intravenously - the wonderful history and those fabulous islands. Speaking of islands - Tash and Dylan have a company scooter, not car, as a part of their exotic working holiday package on Antiparos - jealousy all round.
Our train trip to the port of Patra was an experience we shall never forget. What started on a nice airconditioned train ended on a hot smelly train in the vein of a good old red rattler! Lucifer himself must have been the driver on this hellish journey.
Just as we were loving our space on the first train to Corinth, a typical noisy Greek grandma plants herself in our quad of seats. She proceeded to tell us what to do and to move our bags, not hers, despite us being there first. The rest of the trip involved her bossing the rest of the carriage round too.
We finally escaped the pugent smelling granny fascist, only to endure the non-airconditioned old train, on the second and much longer leg to the port. Happiness was not the mood of the afternoon.
Arrival at the port resulted in one last greek salad on native turf then a mad scramble for our tickets for the 14 hour ferry trip. When a Greek tells you that something is 100m down the street, know he really means 400. Stay tuned for our pirate themed adventures detailing the ferry trips to Bari and Dubrovnik...you have been warned me hearties (said with eye patch on...).
Thursday, July 27, 2006
Thursday, July 20, 2006
Well firstly apologies for the long gap since the last entry - Mykonos was quite the distraction. We were greeted by Tash in her bikini (she had been there for 1 night already) with the line - "Welcome to the madness..."
Our cabins were Spartan, but in all honesty, we didn't make much use of them - it was the beach, bar or table top that we occupied during our stay! At our resort the party starts round 4 and goes through till 9ish, then you get dressed and rested for the real nocturnal activities which start at 12 at the earliest. The grog flows a little too well - the Greeks like free-pouring more than the Spanish! Not forgetting the next stop - Cavo Paradiso - the Mykonos day club. This is situated on a cliff top looking over the ocean, with people dancing in and around the pool, on table tops and basically where ever else they want to. Madness = Mykonos.
Excuse the lack of details but our minds are vague - we did Mykonos proud. Below is a summary of our antics on the island:
*Italian man who prances round the Tropicana Bar (as an employee) yelling obscenities, wearing elephant trunk g-strings...only. "I love Australiani!".
*Nude one-legged angry man who would throw sun chairs around the packed beach whilst swearing in an array of languages! Photos to come...
*We saw Luke Rickettson with a MUCH younger Australian media personality who we are going to the Telegraph with. We are sure no one knows about their 'friendship' back home, and not sure her well-known mother would approve.
*Tash's romantic Italian pick-up line in the bathroom - "(In heavy Italian accent) Ah very sexy. Are you going to do a shit?" - clearly it didn't work on her.
*Carina's brilliant efforts at getting a little Greek man in fluro green hotpants to do her whites in the communal bathroom sink. They are the whitest they have ever been. Bless.
*Kate nearly being killed in one of the bars when a 7 foot ornament fell at her feet, just missing her temple. The general lack of OH&S on the island is alarming.
There are many more tales, but photos will explain all.
Next stop was the calmer but no less beautiful Paros. The ferry trip was interesting, after the previous night's drinking efforts, but we survived sans vomiting - phew. Paros is fantastic - cheaper and more variety of activities than simply partying and parading round in your bikini. Clothes are actually required here....
Visited an amazing beach and stayed at a typical Villa - Villa Gallini - which means silence in Greek. Andreas and May are fabulous hosts - we felt like we were at home. You MUST stay here when in Paros. Check it out - www.villagallini.gr
Off to Ios now - more partying ahead -although finances and future wellbeing are limiting such.
A belated birthday to our Jess - have fun back in Oz and study hard.
Will try to be more diligent with the entries from now. Wait till we get the pics up - you will be scandalised....
Thursday, July 13, 2006
The girls are back together and life is good - as we laid in our double bed in the hotel last night we were reflecting on what a married couple we have become - bless. Tash and Dylan have arrived too, so the island party crew is complete. Everyone was happy to have Kate as their tour guide around Athens yesterday - Acropolis, Temple of Zeus and the site of the first Modern Olympics. In the arvo it was good Greek food and shopping at the markets, of course.
We are looking at the best routes of getting to Croatia as we speak, for one last sneaky week of holiday bliss before we head back to London...nooooo! We have been mauled, not simply bitten, by the traveling bug and are already planning our next ventures. Paris and Ireland are the front runners currently and Kate has her Italy trip booked for late August.
It is off to Mykonos tomorrow for 4 nights, then Paros, Ios and Santorini. Internet access is likely to be sporadic on the islands - we have little faith that we will move off the beach until we are forcibly removed. These tans are going to glow - look out pasty London! We purchased our 4 euro vodka - less than 8 Oz dollars and perhaps 3 pounds - as we hear drink prices are rather inflated at the bars. It will be pre-drinks for all on our dwindling budgets.
Re slack picture efforts - we have plans for a big photo retrospective when we get back to London, where it is actually possibly to download pics in under 5 days! Please be patient and don't stop reading because there are no photos, yet.
We also have a few birthday shoutouts for the mass of July babies we know and love - so a big happy birthday to Mick, Poppy, Virginia, Elysha, Lara, Alyssa (the big 3!!!) and Sue.
Tuesday, July 11, 2006
Am so happy to be back in Athens. So no one acknowledges the road signals and you nearly get hit crossing the road, and the birds are deranged and subsequently fly at your head (wasn't that a pleasant moment yesterday afternoon for bird-lover moi...), but that adds to the character of the place.
Today I went to the Archaeology Museum which was of course fantastic. I especially love all the Roman artifacts - can't wait to hit the museums in Rome. All this history has given rise to the romantic notion of going back to uni to study history. I am sure my family all nearly died at that comment...
The hotel is fabulous - death to the dirty hostel I say. And I am reunited with my blessed 7UP. Will keep this one short as I have to be ready to go and pick up Katie any minute - ah, the reunion.
*Note the colour scheme change for a certain visually-challenged godmother. Please let me know if this is better...
Sunday, July 09, 2006
Hello all, firstly let me apologise for my lack of commitment to the Vegemite Diaries - very hard to write whilst in the most wonderful place on earth. Secondly to my wife, I miss you so much not long till we are reunited again. Thank GOD! Let the good times roll.
San Sebastian would have to be one of the most beautiful places I have been to so far on my travels. I must admit when we arrived I was a bit unsure due to the cloudy weather and rain but things soon picked up. San Seb is a Spanish dame and seaside resort all rolled into one. As a dedicated devotee of the sun, it was straight to the shore. Playa de la Coucha and Playa de la Ondarata was just what I needed, for the filthy hangover I was nursing from the last night in Madrid (Nadia I blame you).
Unsurprisingly it tapas for din dins again - San Seb is famous for its tapas selection as this is where the cuisine originated. In London they bar-hop - here they tapas-hop! This tradition takes place every night of the week, and it's not uncommon to continue you till 2am during the week and until the cock crows on weekends.
Next stop was Pamplona for the Running of The Bulls aka organised chaos! We were up at stupid o'clock i.e. 5am to watch crazy Australians, Americans and Spaniards thinking they could outrun the bulls. The scenes get quite gruesome and bloody - some people have no respect for this event albeit crazy, and they simply make it far more dangerous for those trying to adhere to the rules. Don't worry Mum, I did not run.
These people sure know how to party - up at 5am to run then the party starts, going till the wee hours of the morning - there is no rest for the wicked. We amazingly kept up this tradition whilst enduring the very average camping conditions. I will never complain about hostel showers again! The Aussie boys of Camp Ezcaba must get a mention - the V Crew (as they christened us re the Vegemite obsession) loved you - thanks for the great partying.
After a hectic 2 days in Pamps with a total of 4 hours sleep all up, we were back on the bus to the luxury of San Seb, for some well-deserved r and R. The people here are great - nothing is a problem and they also know how to party. Bless Nadia and Jess' hostel owners, who took us out to the disotecha by the sea - it was an awesome night.
Our final day was spent doing the touristy thing, going to see san Seb from the amazing heights of the Funicular. This train-like device, if that's what you call it, climbs a gradient of 48%, taking you to the best views of San Seb. At the top there is a fun park, which resembled a mini Australia's Wonderland! What a sight.
After all this beauty and fun, it was an arduous 10 hour train trip for the reunion with my wife - she's bloody lucky I love her so much that I endured the night train and a delayed plane for our meeting!
So my Istanbul experience has not quite been a Turkish delight. In fact I have changed my flight back to Athens for tonight, sweet sweet Athens. I have done all I want to do in Istanbul and see no reason in hanging around to be harassed by seedy men, in a nutshell. Ideally I would be goıng to Gallipoli or the coast but time and finances do not permit this, so off I go. I would love to come back but it will be to different areas and with safety in numbers. My Blue Mosque stalker (see yesterdays entry) saw me in the same vicinity today and started with the badgering once again - they are relentless. Does he roam in this area day in and day out to harass women - it seems a viable option.
In keeping with yesterdays religious theme, I slept on a bunk bed that made me closer to god - a good 8 feet closer! It was so high and I don't do the top bunk ever - ask Katie. It was wobbly and there were no railings. How I woke up still lying on it this morning is a gift from God.
After finally getting through to some airport staff to change flight and nervous breakdown taken care of (due largely to the Sydney solo-support act, Poppy), I set out in the city again - boredom makes you do punishing things. Walked a more secluded way and it was amazing to see the American influence in the modern buildings here. Many of the houses look like they have been plucked from a San Francisco. 50 metres down the bumpy cobblestone road is a timber shack that is literally falling apart - contradictions aplenty. Like the saturation of fake Western labels here (Nike, Polo, Prada to name a few), that are supposed to represent the excess that is to be abhored, yet it is embraced.
The Archaelogy Museum was really interesting - a varied collection of all different periods and places. The section on mosaics and pottery was fantastic - it is incredible how detailed and beautiful these ancient objects and patterns are. The general maintenance of things was not so efficient - large stone artefacts are displayed outside with no protection, and some are simply lying on the ground outside as a means of storage and not even of display. Prosperity looks grim.
Right near this are the huge gardens that lead to an amazing view of the water - the contrast from the main street is vast. There are lost of families in the lush gardens and I was not preyed on once. The water view is fantastic - note to self, when in Turkey head to the coast.
Of course I could not go without some traditional Turkish tucker before I left - the iconic kebab. It definitely seemed healthier than the Sydney variety - no sauce, some lettuce and carrot and not-so-greasy chicken. I also did the mandatory scan of the Macca's menu to locate the local dish - yes people, there is an 'McTurko' - a pita-bread-looking burger option.
Well I am off to the airport now - 'tis a happy time. Happy I came here and saw what I saw, namely the Aya Sofya, and learnt what I did. Just not an experience I want to drag out. On analysis my belief in the need for gender equality has been strengthened, as with my feminist beliefs and the notion that Turkey is far from landing that coverted place in the EU that they so desire...
The lack of 7UP is getting to me - curse my addictions.
Saturday, July 08, 2006
Well today has been a holy day of sorts - Blue Mosque first stop. A big and beautiful place - the inside is really amazing. All was good until İ was stalked out of the place by a friendly Turkish chap - İ literally had to yell no thanks and bolt to the next holy venue for him to leave me alone. Fun. Also - the I on this key board ıs very random - hope it all translates into englısh...
İf İ thought the Blue Mosque was big İ was wrong - Aya Sofya is mammoth. This was orıgınally a chrıstıan church from 532AD and converted into a mosque ın 1453. Sınce 1935 it has been a museum open to the publıc. The mosaic detail in here is fantastic - it was covered when converted to a mosque but has been largely uncovered now. My neck was sore from looking up in awe for so long.
Next stop deviates a little from the religious theme but certainly full of a different kind of devotion - The Grand Bazaar - devoted to selling, bargining and basically harrasing. İ have been asked out by more 40 plus men today than İ care to count - sadly none of them wıth a Scottish accent, answering to the name of Sean. Enter the miracle - İ bought nothing.
Then it was onto the Turkish Baths where İ ordered the works - baths access, body wash/scrub and massage - heavenly. İ am all prepped for the Greek İslands now - no flakey skıin in sıght.
As İ floated down the street in a state of utter bliss, İ was approached by a man (yes, 40 plus) askıng where he was from. That is right folks, where HE was from. İ replıed with a simple İ do not know, and hurried along. İt would seem men are the same world wıde - poor on the pick-up lınes. Everyone thinks İ am İtalian or Spanish too - never an insult really.
Now it is time for some tucker - excited - exotic food. After this İ can take the SIXTY plus shopkeeper from down the street, up on his offer to go out tonight, but İ think İ might just retire, as tempted as İ am...
Apparently a ferry out to some nearby islands is cheap as chips and İ can actually swim, even as a female. Stay tuned for the next edition - Turkey is proving interesting.
İ take no blame for lazy Katie and her lack of entries.
Friday, July 07, 2006
Breaking news (how could I forget) - there is a fabulous variation on normal 7-Up lemonade here - it has lime in it as well and it is GOLD! In Barcelona, 7-Up become my poison of choice, ok, addiction of choice. Long gone is the Dr. Pepper affliction...
One word people - haloumi! Until today I was yet to indulge in one of the finest traditional Greek foods during my time in Athens - I could simply not let this travesty occur. Mmm...haloumi. Was remembering our stints at the Greek restaurant in Pitt Street; Poppy, Juz, Paddo and Uncle. The family who owned the restaurant made sure I was seated with perfect vision of the Acropolis - bless. The whole lunch experience was near perfect - the service, food, ambiance - except for the large and loud bunch of Americans trying to order their chicken fried and not grilled! If they don't want the total culture experience, food and all, go to Macca's or better still, stay home. Sorry for the vent, but even American's themselves will admit they are not the best travelers.
The sites were amazing - the size of them has to be seen to be believed. I got a photo at The Temple of Zeus and I look like a tiny spec next to this mammoth structure. The craftsmanship is also fabulous - the ancient societies managed to combine purpose and structure - makes modern man and his structures very bland. Namely 70's architecture. At the site certain areas are roped off, and in the general areas there are tiny rocks and stones scattered where you walk. I figured as this is where I am allowed to walk, I could also take a stone with me. So now I have my very own fragment of The Temple of Zeus - kosher, probably not - oh well.
Made a trip to the supermarket - one of our favourite expeditions in each new city. It is very interesting to see the differences in this standard feature of modern living. In Athens there is no rhyme nor reason to how the isles are stocked - some cleaning stuff is there and the rest of it is over here. Made for a lengthy shopping trip for a mere 4 items, and there are stairs and lifts randomly appearing in the store.
Surprisingly I have not yet mentioned the...BIRDS. We all know how I feel about these wretched creatures, and in addition no one warned me about the sheer number of them in Athens. They are also the fly-at-your-head ones. Deep breaths, deep breaths.
I am finding the Metro system easy to navigate, as with most of Europe actually. It is so clean here i.e. see-your-reflection-in-the-tiled-walls-clean. And I learnt why yesterday when a security guard barked at me in Greek what I quickly translated as "Put your peanuts back in your bag now". Didn't I feel stupid.
Well that's it from me and my first stop in Athens. Off to Istanbul tomorrow - very excited. Will be sad to leave my private hotel room but the hostel in Turkey is one of those 'Top 10 Hostel' efforts - or so they say...
Have urged Katie to get typing but allegedly she is having to much fun.
Thursday, July 06, 2006
Today I ventured to the Acropolis - it is breathtaking. So surreal to actually be standing at the site - all the ancient history classes came flooding back! The Pantheon is absolutely massive. Walking up provided for great exercise - the ancient Athenians must have had buns of steel. It also gets quite windy up, and in Athens in general - many people were losing their hats in the enclosed areas - oops. It is truly a wonderful sight though, and you can see the amazement in all the visitors eyes, and by the tone of their voices. Well except for a certain couple complaining about the slope of the marble - one guess where they were from...
I am seeing the rest of the associated sites tomorrow, so stay tuned for more updates of awe and fascination. Also went to a little history museum which gave much information about the political struggles and events of Greece - these kids were busy.
Am really enjoying Athens - the people are great, the history and culture is in abundance, the food is delish and the shopping even better. Best of all they can all pick the Australian accent, thus we don't get called American.
Reports from Spain indicate a wild night last night - if Katie gets organised she will post the details asap...
Wednesday, July 05, 2006
Tuesday, July 04, 2006
The split has happened but Katie and I seem to be coping - she is still in Spain, whilst I arrived in Athens today. The city has an amazing landscape and I can't wait to start exploring tomorrow. The place I am staying at is fabulous - a little hotel right in Athens centre. Breakfast finishes at 11 too, so one not need rise at the crack of dawn to indulge in a free morning feed.
This keyboard as Greek and English letters on it - I am getting double vision - so I will end it here.
Monday, July 03, 2006
Saturday was the actual Mardi Gras parade and it was flesh and fun aplenty. Off we went to the piazza to join a street party - the booze was flowing, the dance moves were sharp and the men were (mostly) unatainable, although we managed to track down the token 10 straight people at the party.
To try and convey the night through words alone is impossible - visal images are a must. We know, we know, the pics have been lacking, but Spain has an aversion to downloading, truly. The footage is pure gold and will be at your disposal asap.
We are pleased to announce we have made some more wonderful friends, Aussies of course. Jess and Nadia are our 2 new best friends, from Adelaide. As well as Tegan and Dusty, of course.
Heads were very sore on Sunday after Mardi Gras but we soldiered on. Checked out the markets and had a fabulous (and cheap) dinner - probably the first nice meal since leaving Oz! Chris/Handy also arrived from Sydney, so the posse is growing rapidly! He was a little alarmed by our Vegemite antics late last night, which we have roped all the girls right into! This episode has been christened, ´The Vegemite Wars´and yes, pics to follow.
Sunday, July 02, 2006
So it was supposed to be a quiet sangria in the hostel bar...but madrid had other plans for us it would seem. The sangria was going down far too easily, and then we were joined by our hilarious roommates, Tegan and Dusty, and the wheels were truly in motion. Add to the mix some other keen-to -party hostel guests and before we knew it were in line for some huge club in downtown Madrid.
The place was huge and empty...until about 2am when people just came from nowhere and you could hardly move. Soon enough we had got ourselves behind the (velvet) ropped-off section, in true Kate and Katie style! Some rich Texan was buying bottles of Jack Daniels and trays of about 20 cokes at a time. Needless to say, we were on the Jacks from then too. We also had concocted some elaborate faux relationships as well - Dusty and Katie were now siblings, Tegan was their cousin and Kate was the best friend who went to Dusty´s school formal...random.
We thought the night was proving to be crazy up till this point but it would seem that is was very tame in comparison for what was to come. It would seem that Dusty likes to go a little nuts when on the juice, and is very responsive to dares. Kate then stepped in with another of her brilliant schemes i.e. play with the fire extinguisher, and there was Dusty, ready willing and able.
Those suckers really can blanket quite a bit of a hostel floor and your OWN bedroom. It looked like the aftermath of a nuclear war! there was powder everywhere. Needless to say, the other roommate who had stayed in was not too impressed with the whole event.
Punchline is we didn´t get caught and yes, the pics are coming - Spain is not very download savvy.











